|
|
  |
||
|
Milling
Jigs Used The first jig used was a vertical board made to slide in a frame above and in line with the saw blade and was used to make the string notch. The entire jig frame was wedged to the saw’s fence. A block was cut from 2x4 approximately 10 inches long, and a groove milled along its long axis and centered 1 inch deep by 1 1/4 inch wide. This cut was made such that the doweling will fit snugly in place during milling. A 1/4 inch pivot hole is drilled in the center of the groove 1 inch from the end of the block and counter-sunk to fit a 1/4 counter-sunk bolt. A matching 1/4 inch hole in the block mounted on the plywood index 1 1/2 inches above the plywood surface. The end of the pivoting block needs to be cut in a curve sufficient to allow it to clear the deck of the plywood without catching. Two small stop blocks were mounted on the vertical sliding deck in front and behind the pivoting block at roughly 45 degree angles from the vertical to start and end the stroke when cutting the nock groove. Lastly, a small block was mounted on the milled, 1 1/4 inch grooved pivot block to serve as a length guide for the dowels as they are milled. This small block protrudes only 1/4 inch across the end of the groove to provide a ‘shoulder’ to hold the ramin wood dowel length the correct height above the saw blade. Bolt the pivot block to the block mounted on the index deck with the 1/4 bolt. Ramin wood doweling varies slightly in diameter. Layers of duct tape were used to pad the groove to insure the dowel was seated firmly in place and centered over the saw blade. A 10 inch diameter carbide-tipped saw blade was used to make the 1/8 wide notch. |
|||
 |
 |
||
