- One five foot straight length of 3/4” diameter 160 psi Siloflex-equivalent polyethylene pipe.

   - PVC pipe cutters, or a hacksaw Size 6.5 white gum rubber stopper, available from home brewing stores.

   - Vinyl sleeve “Trailer Ball Hider” available at auto parts store, which will hold to  2” diameter. (See the photo). Trim it to fit if necessary.

   - 2” circles of blue camping mat or any good quality closed cell foam, you may cut with scissors or hot wire. You will need 3-5, depending on the thickness.

   - 2” diameter leather disc (use scrap leather)

   - 1” circle of blue camping mat foam.

   - Fins (optional): Look here for fin patterns you can cut out and use. One pair, short or long as you prefer.
 
    - Leather punch (optional)

    - Drill with small bit

    - 1” high quality monofilament strapping tape. Please buy the good stuff, Scotch 3M is highly recommended. If you buy cheap strapping tape you can save a few dimes at the cash register, but you will regret it later when the tape fails prematurely due to cheap adhesive and you have to restrap your whole javelin.

    -Duct tape, red for the thrusting tip and then your choice of colors for the rest.

    - Glue. Nothing really bonds Siloflex to Siloflex. However, the best found thus far is “Plumbers GOOP” or “Marine GOOP” brand contact cement. This is available at any home repair or hardware store in anything from small 1 oz tubes (all you need) to 5 gallon buckets.

   - Tying material. I use 80 lb test braided fishing line doubled in a leather sewing needle: nice and fine and lies flat when tied, and have never had a problem. However, parachute cord or polypropylene line will work just as well.

   - Blunt leather sewing needle. If you’re using braided fishing line you will be very happy to have this. If using parachute cord, etc, this is unnecessary.
Single edge razor blade, or utility knife.

   - Label, indelible marking pen and clear packing tape to cover your label.